Crafts Glossary
Acid Migration: The transfer of acid from an acidic material to a non-acidic material. This can happen even when the two materials are not quite touching. So when we say "use only acid-free materials," we mean it!
Acid-Free: Paper with pH factor (remember high school chem?) above 7.0. Papers and adhesives that contain acid can damage photos and will actually self-destruct in time.
Acid-Free: Free of chemicals that harm photos in scrapbook projects. Generally, materials whose pH is over 7.0 are considered acid-free. ALL materials used in scrapbook pages should be acid-free unless you want them to dissolve before the next generation's eyes.
Acrylic Rulers: Clear acrylic with 2-color grid for precision measuring and detail cutting. Great for quilters.
Adhesive: Anything that sticks one material to another. Several common types of adhesive are photo stickers, Hermafix, glue dots or glue sticks.
Adjustable Pivot Screw: Lets you adjust blade tension to your own comfort level.
Applique: Applying shaped pieces of fabric to a foundation fabric to form a design or pattern.
Archival Ink: Long-lasting dye ink that will not fade or smear. Even when you apply water colors after stamping, it will not bleed. Also ideal for documents you don't expect to see again for many years.
Archival Safe: Archival materials are meant to last about 100 years. Archival-safe materials can be safely used for preservation purposes.
Bent Scissors: Angled handles make it easy to cut cloth and other materials on flat surfaces.
Blade Sheaths: Protective sheath that keeps blades enclosed.
Burnisher: Pen-like shaped tool with steel ball tip on end used for embossing.
Card Stock: Stiff, heavier weight paper used widely in scrapbooking and paper crafts. Usually available in hundreds of colors.
Chalks: Acid-free chalk that is usually applied with an eye shadow-type applicator or cotton swab to add dimension to die cuts, torn edges, cards, etc.
Colorfast: Light, acid and heat are the main things that can harm your scrapbooks. A colorfast item resists all three.
Crimper: A tool that produces a very narrow accordian-like fold on paper for added dimension.
Crimper: Sometimes paper can be so... flat. A crimper adds dimension.
Crop Photo: Using scissors or craft knife to cut away unwanted parts of a photo in order to create a focal point.
Cropping: Using scissors or craft knife to cut away unwanted parts of a photo in order to create a focal point.
Debossing: The opposite of embossing; the design is indented into the paper or material.
Die-Cut: A shape that is cut from cardstock, paper or other material using a cookie-cutter-like die. Used to embellish cards or scrapbook pages.
Dye Inks: Quick drying ink, not generally used for embossing. Ideal for use on vellum paper if you do not wish to add embossing powder.
Embossing: Creating a raised three-dimensional design or image on paper or other materials.
Embossing (Dry): Creating a raised design on card stock, paper or other material using either a brass stencil with a light source and stylus, or with stacked stencils (Fiskars ShapeBoss) and a stylus. Either way, the results are gratifying.
Embossing (Wet): A technique which uses a rubber stamp with inks and embossing powder which results in a raised stamped image on paper or other material.
Embossing Heat Gun: A heat gun, similar to a small hair dryer, used to melt embossing powder so it adheres to paper or other material to produce a raised stamped image.
Embossing Ink: Thick, clear or slightly tinted ink used in (wet) embossing to adhere embossing powder.
Embossing Powder: Powder applied using embossing ink, then heated until it melts to create a raised, embossed, colored image on paper or almost anything else. Sounds messy, looks beautiful.
Eyelet Setter: A metal tool used for applying eyelets.
Eyelets: Small hollow metal circles, similar to those once used for leather projects, applied to a small hole punched in material and then secured by splitting the backside of the eyelet open with an eyelet setter.
Gel Pens: Ball point pens with smooth-flowing, acid-free and archival quality ink.
Glue Dots: Extremely sticky round dots of glue used to hold on embellishments such as buttons or heavy metal pieces. Also very useful in sticking things to papers and materials that are normally stick-resistant.
Glue Stick: A round stick of solid glue which is used to adhere embellishments to scrapbook pages, cards, tags, etc.
Journaling: Hand-written or computer generated on a scrapbook page that usually tells the story of what's going on in the photos.
Lignin-Free: Lignin is what holds wood together. But if it's not removed during the papermaking process, the paper can change color and become brittle over time. Documents and projects for archiving need to use linin-free paper.
Mat Photo: Mounting a photo onto a larger piece of paper or several concentric layers to produce a pleasing effect.
Micro-Tip Scissors: Scissors with a specially sharpened point for precise cuts.
Page Topper: A section across the top of a scrapbook page - usually one word or a short phrase - pertaining to what is going on in the photos on the page. Usually embellished with chalks, buttons, stitches, etc.
Paper Piecing: The process of taking a design, making a pattern, cutting it down into smaller sections and then re-assembling it.
Photo Corners: Triangular-shaped pockets used to secure photos to an album page or other surface.
Photo Safe: This term is generally used in place of the term acid-free when a manufacturer can't legally claim that a product is acid-free. As a rule of thumb, it's a good idea to avoid products that claim to be photo safe rather than acid-free.
Photo Stickers: Attach photos, diecuts and memorabilia to scrapbooks, cards and more with these square (but quite hip) double-sided stickers. Acid-free, achival quality of course.
Pigment Ink: Slow drying ink, used widely for wet embossing. This ink is also used regularly in scrapbooking because it tends to keep its deep, rich color longer than other inks.
Razor-Edged Scissors: The sharper the blade, the easier it is to cut through multiple layers of paper or fabric. And we have some very sharp blades.
Reinforced Bolt Joint: The heavier the material you're cutting, the more stress you place on the bolt joint. Reinforcement lets you cut truly gonzo material.
Rotary Cutters: Contoured handle at one end, circular blade at the other. So comfortable, you'll look for excuses to cut through multiple layers of fabric, paper and more.
Self-Healing Cutting Mat: Gridded surface for cutting with rotary blades and craft knives.
Self-Healing Mats: Gridded surface for cutting with rotary blades and craft knives.
Sepia: A brown tint (originally squid ink) added to photos to give them an old-fashioned appearance. Very popular in heritage photos or photos of children.
SewSharp: Hand-held scissors sharpener.
ShapeBoss: Tray with pegs that provides a base for Fiskars 2-part stencils to make embossing simple and easy.
Silhouette Photo: Cutting around the subject carefully in order to preserve detail, then mounting it on a contrasting background.
Softgrip Scissors: Wouldn't you rather have soft rubber material to cushion your hands instead of dealing with unforgiving, blister-causing metal. We thought so.
Softouch Scissors: Spring-action scissors that automatically open after each cut.
Stylus: A tool used in dry embossing with either one or two metal ball shapes on either end. This tool resembles a pen, which, confusingly enough, can also be called a stylus.
Swivel Knife: Small, curved-blade knife that turns with the motion of your wrist so you look more skillful than you need to be.
Template: A sheet, usually of soft or hard plastic, with cut-out shapes that you can use to trace or cut identical shapes from paper or other materials.
Texture Plates: These plastic plates add textures to papers, metal, clay and more.
True Left-Handed Scissors: Blades are "flipped" to make life easier for left-handed people.

Orange handled scissors are a