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Tips and Techniques

Border Punch Tips
Hand Punch Tips
ShapeBoss Tips
ShapeCutter Tips

Border Punch Tips

• To start the border design at the edge of a page line up the piece of paper with the grid line mark that is one step inside the corner notch. (Marked "a" on the punch diagram)
• To line up the punch design so that it makes a continuous design from one side of the paper to the other simply match up the punched out design with the "repeat silhouette" that is printed on the base of the punch.(Marked as #3 on the punch diagram.)
• To center one design on a mat or piece of paper piece simply find and mark the spot where you want to center punch the design. Line it up with the center notch (Marked as #1 on the punch diagram) and slide the paper to the back of the punch and depress the punch lever.
• To continue to repeat the design on either side of the center simply slide the punch design over until it matches the repeat silhouette.
• To turn a corner with the punch design start at the corner and insert the corner of the paper even with the corner notch indicated on the punch. Flip the paper up-side down, turn 90 degrees, and insert the other side of the corner again even with the corner notch on the punch. (Some designs will match evenly at the corner of a 12 x12 piece of paper, others may have to be trimmed.) If the corner design does not match up evenly at the corner try spreading the design by starting at the outer grid mark. ( Marked "b" on the punch diagram) This will spread the corners enough that the design may end up evenly along the page. (The corners will not be trimmed by the punch itself so you may have to trim it with a pair of scissors.)
• To punch a mat for a photo first determine how many design repeats is closest to the size of the photo. For example a 5x7 photo will require 3 repeats across the top and bottom and 4 repeats along the sides.
• To do this start at a corner and work over three repeats. Trim the paper a quarter inch beyond the design repeat and continue around the corner to do the long side of the mat. (Repeat the process at the other corners as necessary.)

• The "center notch" is the middle of the punch design.
• The "corner notch" will help line up the punch design when going around the corner of a page.
• The "repeat silhouette" will help you line up the repeat of the punch design if you are doing a whole side of a page.
• The "1/4" grid" will help line up other measurements when doing the border designs.
• The "punch lever" is a build in "punch aid" to help make the border punch easier to depress.
• Inner "grid mark" for lining up edge of the paper.
• Outer "grid mark" for spreading corner design".

Hand Punch Tips

• Combine theme-related punched shapes.
• The same punch can look very different just by changing the colors, patterns or textures of the papers used.
• Combine punches, shapes and stickers.
• Layering - by combining and positioning different punch shapes, you can create an endless number of new images.
• Cutting - by cutting punched shapes, you can combine paper colors and patterns for unique effects or remove extra portions of the punched shapes.
• Snipping - by snipping into the primary shape with a second punch, much as you would use scissors, you can redefine or create a new punched shape.
• Adding dimension - by using contrasting paper shades, patterned paper, layering punched shapes or crimping them, you can add depth to your punched shapes.
• Use a ruler to measure spacing for patterns and borders. With a pencil, lightly draw guidelines on the back of your paper to ensure proper punch placement. Place dots where the center of each punch should be. Check the alignment before punching through the paper.
• Tiny punched pieces can be difficult to lift and place. A Tweezers® or Softgrip® Razor Knife make the job of precise placement easier. The pen-tip applicator on the Fiskars Glue Pen works well for placing small dots of glue on the backs of the punched pieces. Don't use too much glue, it will seep out when you place the shape on your paper and you may end up with wrinkles and "warped" paper.
• Use a Tweezers® to hold your punched pieces while applying adhesive.
• Another method for adhering punch pieces uses Fiskars Photo Stickers. Place the Photo Sticker on the back of your paper before punching the shape. After punching the shape from the paper with Photo Sticker attached, peel off the backing and place the shape onto your page. Removing the liner of the Photo Stickers isn't always easy, but the Fiskars Softgrip® Razor Knife can help lift the liner from the sticker. This tool is also great for cutting apart punched shapes.

ShapeBoss Tips

• Create the Shape Boss sandwich. Template, paper, wax paper, template. It allows your stylus to glide easily on the second embossing and reduces the chances of tearing your paper. (tip: If you have a Xyron the paper backing is very slick and easy to emboss.)
• Emboss the design once and carefully remove the wax paper. You are not going for detail this time around just laying a slippery track for the second embossing.
• Emboss the design again; this should be quick and easy now that you have a waxy surface. This second embossing allows for a deeper more detailed impression. (Tip: when the design allows use the larger end of the stylus with the wax paper. The more area that is covered the easier the second embossing.)
• Each design element can be used individually or in combination with other elements to create beautiful effects on your art projects.
• Almost all papers can be embossed, vellum, cardstock, suede paper, metallic papers, etc. A variety of other materials including foil and metal can be embossed also.
• Highlighting your embossed designs adds new dimension to your projects. An easy way to highlight is to carefully turn your "embossing sandwich" over keeping all layers together. With the template still in place, highlight only the raised areas.

• The templates have a right and wrong side for cutting. One side is beveled the other is not. When cutting make sure that the beveled side is facing your paper. An easy way to make sure your template is correct is to look at the Fiskars logo. If your template is correct you will be able to "Feel" the logo and read it. If you have it upside down the logo will be backwards and smooth.
• Hold the template firmly with one hand and the Shape Cutter in the other. (Tip; be sure the plastic tip (not the blade) is against the template design. Some people have a tendency to rest the plastic tip on top of the template, as a result the blade never touches the paper) Start with something simple, an oval or a circle. When you mastered those move on to Diamonds and squares. (tip; Always start on a straight edge, never in a corner) After some practice you will feel confident to move onto more difficult shapes such as flowers and letters. (tip; If the blade is pointed towards the template you will leave a small cut in the frame of the design. If the blade is pointed towards the design you will leave a small cut in the design. In order to avoid this try to make your blade parallel with the edge of the template. There are times when you will point your blade one way or the other on purpose. For example, when you are cutting letters such as R, you will cut out the small inside circle first. You want a smooth cut to the outside frame so point your blade to the inside before you start. When cutting the outside point your blade toward the template. In this way you make sure the letter has clean edges all around.)
• When you do larger designs or borders you will notice that the Shape Cutter has a tendency to tip toward the side where there is not template. This is easily corrected by exerting a little extra pressure with your thumb to keep the Shape Cutter level with the template. (Tip; when cutting a border you can place another template along side of the template you are using to keep the Shape Cutter even.)