Planting Annuals And Perennials

Get your flowers off to the very best start possible by planting them right.

Most annuals are sold already established in pots. Perennials, on the other hand, can be sold in pots or in a state called bare-root, that is, their roots are bare of soil and each plant is sold in a plastic bag (and sometimes a box as well) packed with damp sawdust. Bare-root is the way most mail-order plants are sold in an effort to reduce shipping weight. In garden centers, just a few perennials, such as clematis, are sold this way.

Here's how to plant annuals and perennials:

1. Time it right.

If you're new to gardening, just remember this: Most stuff should be planted in spring.

More specifically, annuals should be planted at the beginning of the growing season in late winter or early spring. Cool-season annuals (see "Choosing Annuals"), such as pansies, should be planted a few weeks before your region's last possible frost to take advantage of cooler temperatures.

Warm-season annuals, such as marigolds and impatiens, are damaged by frost and therefore should be planted after your region's last average frost date in spring. (Check with your garden center if you're unsure when that date is.)

Perennials can be planted nearly any time of the year when it's not too cold (not freezing) and not too hot (no regular temperatures above 85 degrees). For warm-season gardeners in, say, California, that means a good time for planting perennials is early autumn through late winter. For cold-winter gardeners in places like the Midwest and Northeast, that means a good planting time for perennials is early spring and early autumn.

2. Prepare the soil.

If you're planting directly into the ground and not into an established flower bed, you'll need to prepare the soil. Remove any grass or weeds, then work the soil to a depth of 1 to 2 feet with a spading fork or spade. Spread a few inches of compost onto the surface of the soil and work in.

If you are planting in an established flower bed, loosen the soil with a spade or trowel to a depth of a foot or so. Make a hole a few inches larger and wider than the flower's pot. Add a handful to a spadeful (depending on the hole's size) of compost to each hole.

3. Prepare the roots as needed.

If the plant is bare-root, remove it from its package and soak the roots, completely submerged, in a bucket of water for an hour or two. As insurance, it's a good idea to add a root stimulator (available at garden centers) to the water.

If the plant is in a container, knock it out of its container. If the roots are filling the pot and starting to make a swirl around the bottom, loosen them with your fingers or a trowel.

4. Set the plant in the ground.

Plant according to package or label directions, but generally, position the plant in the hole so that it is the same depth as it was in the pot. With bare-root plants, position so the crown—the part of the plant where the stems and roots come together—is right at soil level.

Pack the soil down lightly with your hands or foot.

5. Water well.

Soak the ground thoroughly with a hose or watering can. Keep well watered for two or more weeks until the plant is established, that is, when it starts sending out new growth.

If desired, mulch with 1 to 2 inches of wood chip mulch or other biodegradable mulch (not raw wood chips since they rob the soil of nitrogen). Mulch suppresses weeds and keeps in moisture, making sure your new plants will live long and happy lives.